“Wearing a kimono is like stepping into another world. It embodies grace, elegance and a deep sense of tradition.”
Unknown
Japanese clothing is world famous for both its cutting edge fashion design and the iconic kimono, which represents its ancient cultural traditions. I am interested in both, but the kimono is of particular interest. I wanted to know the vocabulary for all the parts and pieces and the how, why, when and when to wear any specific kimono. The word “kimono” itself means “a thing to wear.” I learned much by shopping and acquiring both antique and contemporary kimonos, so when I actually dressed in the different kimonos it was with a better understanding.
Rather than go to one of the many kimono rental shops, I sought out a “kitsuke,” a professional dressing salon. I dressed in three different kimono styles. Two antique ones – a more casual style and the other for dressy occasions – that I had purchased – and a formal long skirted one (called “hikizuri”) that trailed elegantly on the ground, which I wore with full geisha makeup. Because the fittings were confined to indoors, I did not use either the “Geta” sandals, raised on wooden platforms, or “Zori” slip on sandals, both used for outdoors. I simply wore the “Tabi” split toe white socks.
All kimonos have swaddling like layers of undergarments made of soft, white, lightweight cotton that are wrapped and tied around the body with ribbons. These are to protect the outer silk kimono and facilitate the shape and comfort of the kimono. The securing ribbons are called “Datejime” and though each layer is light, the layers can add several pounds of weight. The kimono wraps over these layers and is tied into place using more ribbons (specifically for the hip and the chest). It is then pulled, bloused over the waist and adjusted to a smooth fit and once again tied into place. A large band secures the wrapped kimono at the waist, an undergarment for the obi. The “Obi” is a wide, long decorative belt up to 13 feet in length! Most often this fabric is folded into a large, square decorative embellishment at the back, though sometimes a bow or other shape is used. If folded into a square, a small pad called an “obi-makura,” is added — a bolster type pillow – to give more shape and structure.
The Japanese delight in color, pattern and texture and love mixing them. A colorful, long scarf, called an “obiage,” is threaded through the back of the folded obi, brought around to the front and tucked just under the obi to add a border of bright color. A thin woven cord, an “obijime,” knotted at the front is layered on top of the obi to both tighten the obi and add texture. Often a brooch or pin (“obi dome”) is added for further added texture and interest.
With all this, one might think the kimono tight, restrictive and uncomfortable. While it definitely does not compare to the comfort of an oversized hoodie and pant, it is not in the least uncomfortable. There is a feeling of being protectively cocooned and results in a sense of restraint and calmness. There is room to move but with a thoughtfulness, a consideration before making movements or gestures is engendered. It feels refined and elegant to be in this space — it is a Purely Personal space!
