“Japan never considers time together wasted. Rather, it is time invested”
Donald Richie
The word geisha literally means artistic person and geishas are highly trained and skilled in the traditional Japanese arts of music, singing, dance, conversation and games. It is a profession revered in Japan as geisha are the preservers and ambassadors of a unique cultural heritage. They are renowned for their impeccable hosting and entertaining skills. I was thrilled to have the opportunity to have a private dinner (just me and my guide/interpreter) with Umaiha-san at an historic “ryoutei,” a high end restaurant.
Dinner with Umaiha-san was as delightful and entertaining as I hoped and expected. She arrived wearing a “hikizuri,” the kimono with a long skirt that trails on the floor. As in the afternoon, she wore the required autumn colors with an obi sash embellished with gorgeous autumn leaves. Though she joined us at the table, she did not eat, in part because of the traditional white makeup, but immediately the conversation was easy, lighthearted and engaging. Eventually, the conversation led to her sharing amusing, even hilarious, anecdotes about her life and experiences as a geisha.
In one such episode, she and another geisha, were flying to Rome with a client. They were dressed in casual kimono style (ankle length) and carrying their formal wigs in tall boxes, which must remain upright or the wigs are damaged. Unable to store the boxes in the overhead bins or under the seats caused a problem: the plane could not leave until “all items are securely stored.” Solving the dilemma, Umaiha-san and her “sister geiko“ (as they are called in Kyoto), simply removed the wigs and plopped them on their heads! Two rather resourceful, if unusual passengers!
Umaiha-san is not only resourceful, she is also determined. In 2017 two Japanese clients wanted to go to Tennessee to view the solar eclipse. Umaiha-san expressed a desire to go but they said they needed a chauffeur as neither of them drove. As luck would have it, the next evening she found herself entertaining a group of businessmen, one of whom was the President of a Kyoto driving school. She asked if he could arrange driving lessons for her. He did and she passed the exam for an International drivers license. She flew to Atlanta with her two clients, rented a car and drove them to Knoxville! As I’ve said, she is an amazing woman.
On another occasion she was asked by an elderly couple who were bored with one another after decades of marriage, to accompany them on a cruise. Apparently they were regular clients who found life more interesting with her around. Accepting the opportunity for adventure, Umaiha-san found herself aboard a cruise ship and, of course, the only geisha. The last evening the couple asked her to dress in formal kimono and makeup. She complied and startled and entertained the entire ship’s passengers— what a bonus surprise for them! (I can’t imagine how she packed all that was needed for dress, accessories, makeup, wig — though we know how she solved that issue from a former trip)!
She then performed some dances for me as I finished dinner. Her every movement was fluid, evocative and expressive. I share one of them with you here.
Dinner over, she proposed we play a game. It is a fairly simple game but requires hand-eye coordination and quick decision making, especially as the game speeds up. See if you can determine the rules and the goal. Spoiler alert: I eventually lost and had to take a drink.
I feel privileged to share this wonderful experience with you. I hope you, too, enjoy it as a Purely Personal glimpse into a fascinating world.
