“The love of beauty is taste. The creation of beauty is art”
Ralph Waldo Emerson
We all understand the admonition to walk a mile in another’s shoes before forming an opinion or making a judgement. I recently had the opportunity to walk in the tabi socks and zori sandals of a Japanese geisha. Geishas are known worldwide as the somewhat mysterious women who wear kimonos and paint their faces white. I wanted to understand the process and what it feels like to be visible and at the same time, invisible; so I took the opportunity to dress as a geisha and hide my identity (my face) with white paint and a wig.
It was not exactly what I expected. My expectation was it might feel a bit like one feels wearing a costume for Halloween or a theme party but it was a much more solemn feeling. Perhaps because the time it takes provides an awareness of the long traditions and meanings that are intricately tied to this cultural art form. One is aware of each step in a meticulous process designed to express and preserve Japanese aesthetics.
As with any makeup, the process begins with preparing the skin by thoroughly cleansing. Then a small amount of wax, (called “abura”) which melts when massaged in the hands, is applied to the face. It is then lightly dabbed with a tissue to any remove excess and it becomes slightly tacky. This helps to hold and set the “oshiroi,” the white paint.
Oshiroi is a powder that is mixed with water to form a paste, which is applied with special brushes made from badger or goat hair. “Hake,” a wide, flat brush is used for the face and neck and much smaller brushes are used for eyes, brows and lips.
The entire face is covered as is the front of the neck and shoulders. Skin at the back of the neck is left bare as this is considered a sensual area to glimpse. Sometimes two or three thin lines are painted on the back neck, making the neck appear longer and more slender. This base is also dabbed lightly to make certain it is smooth and even for a thin layer of white rice powder to be applied.
This white base creates a living canvass for an art form dating back to the seventh century. Originally, those seeking an audience with a powerful ruler painted their faces white to better stand out in dimly lit palaces. Later, actors adopted the white faces for the same visibility advantage while performing on candle-lit stages. Geishas are performers and entertainers so the tradition has passed to them.
The pallet used on this living canvass, is limited to pink and reds with some black used for dramatic depth. Pink powder is lightly applied to cheeks to give a softening blush and add contouring to the oshiroi. It is also used with reds around the eyes. Red is used to shape and define the eyebrows and at the outside corners of the eyes, with black added for emphasis and drama.
For geisha, the white has come to symbolize a pure form of beauty. Red is believed to ward off evil and bring good fortune and thus happiness. Lips are painted a deep, bright red (called “beni,” which means crimson) in the form of small flower petal or a rather cute puckered shape.
Removal of all this is achieved using a dissolving oil, then a face cleanser to remove the oil. Finally, as universally done, a good moisturizer is applied.
In the end, my experience enlightened me about the often inscrutable reasons and history behind another culture’s sense of beauty and art. I am grateful for this acquired understanding and also grateful for my own Purely Personal style!
