“Yellow is capable of charming God” Vincent Van Gogh
Yellow, along with red and blue, form the triad of primary colors. As a primary, yellow is necessary to create the secondary and tertiary colors that enhance our world in art and textiles. While the original, natural sources for red (insects) and blue (lapis lazuli), were labor intensive and expensive, the colors were fairly stable and reliable. But yellow presented a challenge to reproduce because most of the mineral or plant based sources turned brown, black or were poisonous. The saffron flower has stigmas that produce a trustworthy yellow, but they must be painstakingly hand picked in a single day and it is a famously finicky crop to cultivate. Ironically, an accident in a chemistry lab resulted in the discovery of a bright purple — yellow’s opposite on the color wheel — that would lead to consistent and stable hues of yellow.
Using aniline, from coal-tar, in a search to produce quinine for treatment of malaria, 18 year old British chemist, William Henry Perkin, inadvertently created a thick, dark substance. Curious, he experimented and found that, using alcohol, he could isolate a vibrant purple — the first aniline dye. He recognized the value and possibilities of synthetically produced colors and filed a patent in 1856, which laid the foundation for all subsequent aniline dyes, including yellow. William Henry Perkin actively built the synthetic dye industry by setting up production facilities, inventing a “mordant” (a fixative) to bind aniline colors to cotton, advising and training the growing industry and, crucially, publicizing his invention. It was a German who in 1861 developed “aniline yellow” — thanks to the unexpected appearance of a synthetic purple and the foresight of William Henry Perkin. Finally able to economically produce stable hues of the necessary primary colors, the fashion industry began its colorful revolution alongside the Industrial Revolution.
As with all colors, the symbolism of yellow varies with cultures, religions and over time. Yellow has represented affluence as well as greed and betrayal. Yellow also signals caution and warning. However, it most consistently has represented the sun and light, thus warmth, happiness and optimism.
For fashion designers, yellow is especially important in its brighter range for spring and summer. It imparts a joyful energy announcing a welcome end to the drabness of winter. Aniline yellows have a vibrancy that is enhanced by the summer textures of cottons, linens and silk fabrics. In its deeper shades of mustards and golds, yellow moves easily into autumn and winter and becomes elegant in textured wools, velvets and suedes.
The discovery of aniline dyes allowed all colors to be economically and reliably produced but adding a stable and affordable yellow was critical, as it was the most elusive of the three primary colors. Today you can confidently add a spot of bright, optimistic, happy yellow or deeper, elegant golden tones to your Purely Personal Style!
HINTS FOR WEARING YELLOW
1.The softer, buttery tints of yellow work well with fair skin, while the deeper mustard and gold shades are good for olive complexions.
2. Yellow is particularly impactful when paired with its complement, purple, or navy blue, dark green or deep reds. By sure to keep the tints and shades balanced!
3) Neutrals like grays, whites and beiges can absorb some of yellow’s intense exuberance.
4) Yves Saint Laurent used Mondrian’s color block paintings for inspiration and impact; try using yellow with your own favorite “blocks” of color!
5) Bright yellows project a jaunty, casual attitude while deeper shades can be more reserved in feel.
6) Bright yellow gives a lift to drab, dreary days anytime of year.
7) Accessories in yellow impart charm in small pops of color
