“One king, one law, one faith”
“L’état c’est moi”
Versailles, the court palace of Louis XIV, the Sun King, was built as a symbol of his absolute monarchy; a reflection of his personal power and grandeur. For decades Versailles was home to opulent and decadent parties, grand theatrical productions and the display of great art.
Imagine dressing in rustling silk, sensuous satin or plush velvet, corsets pulled tight to create wasp waists and overflowing bosoms, hair piled high atop the head and adorned with feathers, flowers, pearls and jewels. Imagine, also, navigating constantly shifting alliances, both personal and political, played out publicly and viciously in bids for royal favor. What must it have been like to live in this palace, to wear such clothing and to participate in the intrigues and the entertainments of this rarified, aristocratic life? Once a year, Versailles offers an opportunity to find out.
The annual Versailles Fête Galante reproduces the spirit of the 17th century court life in a totally immersive experience. Even if one is lucky enough to acquire a ticket, (the 600 tickets sell out in minutes online), dress of the epoch is strictly required. Beyond the dress there is also makeup and hair. For me and my (step) daughter, Vanessa, that meant starting the evening preparations at 11:30 in the morning!
A pale complexion with blushed cheeks with a small “mouche” (mole) was the desired look of the mid 1600’s. In my case, a laborious process was also necessary for wearing and elaborate wig — first pinning my own hair into small curls and then covering with a wig cap before donning the wig. Once situated atop my head, the wig required about 50 more pins to secure it (I tried not to think about removing it alone at midnight!). Vanessa more pragmatically chose to wear her long hair straight and natural!
Next, one must actually get into the dress. These beautiful gowns, which rustle and sway so seductively once on, require assistance at every step. It was immediately obvious why each aristocratic lady and her daughters would require their own maid (and hairdresser). The “panniers” (the large, puffy hip undergarments) are first wrapped around the waist and secured with ties in front and back — while they are a bit funny and odd, they are not uncomfortable; rather light and bouncy. The dress or skirt is then opened very wide and slips over the head — with great care if wearing a wig! Then comes the fun part — one must be laced up and the corset pulled tight. This cannot be done by oneself and requires much “jiggling, juggling and adjusting” of body parts!
We were the first to arrive and had time for some photos and to engage a group of school children who were convinced they met a real Queen! As others began to arrive, they reminded me of a flock of exotic birds flaunting their brightly colored clothing and plumage. Even the sense of competition that reigned in the court could be felt in this present day reenactment, with appraising glances both flirtatious and jealous. Then as now, clothing telegraphed messages — regal and elegant, self-assured or timid, socially aggressive or established, available for “fun” or shy and demure — men and women both. Clearly there was an anticipation building — what would this evening bring? The gates opened and we entered into the Marble Courtyard to kettle drums and trumpets and a corridor formed by footmen serving champagne.
With only 600 people inside a palace built to house 10,000 courtiers and their retinues, there was plenty of opportunity to linger in the apartments and grand salons, including the famous Hall of Mirrors. The Salon de Mars offered games of chance and billiards. A bawdy shadow box play acted out the permissiveness of “Ancien” court using stick puppets to raucous and somewhat tipsy laughter. A more high brow opera was performed in the adjacent room for those whose flirtations were more subtle. Professional dancers expertly moved through the elaborate posturing of baroque dance to live music, each gesture meant to send a message as surely as our social media today. A simpler version of the movements was taught for those interested in trying the very structured and courtly moves, though without the nuance of subtle nods, dips and shrugs telegraphing the later intentions of experienced courtiers of the era.
Dazzling fireworks often ended the spectacular parties given by or for the Sun King and so this evening also ended. I opted to experience, in solitude, the silent majesty of the Marble Courtyard on a beautiful, clear night with a half-moon reigning in a deep blue sky above.
