“Every generation laughs at the old fashions, but follows religiously the new”
Henry David Thoreau
On July 4th, 2026, America celebrates the 250th anniversary of independence from British rule. While many current traditions and festivities are descended from original celebrations and are much the same, styles in clothing are not even remotely similar. In a multi-part series, Purely Personal takes a look at the evolution in fashion from 1776 to today.
The first celebration of our newly won independence from British rule did not take place on a single day in 1776. Communication was so slow that celebrations were spread out over the entire summer and into 1777. As news of the Declaration of Independence gradually made its way across farms, rural outposts, settlements, and townships, church bells enthusiastically and frequently rang out. In town squares, churches and taverns, the Declaration of Independence was read aloud and speeches and sermons were given. Bonfires, military salutes and cannon fire were the precursor to firework displays common today. Picnics, horse races, games, storytelling, music and dance were common. In taverns, lively and patriotic gatherings were made even more “spirited” with toasts made thirteen at a time (!) in honor of the thirteen colonies. More toasts to George Washington followed. It is not an understatement to say spirits ran high.
While events celebrated freedom from British rule, clothing of the time revealed contradictions in identity. Americans were uncertain, hopeful and proud of their newly won independence but their clothing still reflected British influence (and the courts of Europe, especially Paris).
If you were a woman in 1776/1777, what would you have worn to the many celebrations taking place?
Regardless of the event, your attire would begin with a stiffly laced corset, over which would be layered a pannier— a cage like construction strapped around the waist to emphasize the sides of the hips. Over that would be layers of petticoats and then the dress itself. If you were a woman of means, the dress material would be of silk, linen, wool or imported cotton. Fabric patterns were of delicate stripes, florals or heavily embroidered. Over the dress a “stomacher” was worn—an inverted triangular piece that stretched across the bodice and tapered, point down, to the waist. This too was of elegant material and often embroidered. Stomachers, along with ribbons, bows and lace were accessories often changed out to create new looks with the same dress. Also popular as an accessory were fans, both for use to cool oneself and as flirting devices. Hair styles were high art. And, I mean high! Often towering a foot or more, they were often powdered and decorated with ribbons, flowers, jewels and even miniature ships! In a war that had featured many naval battles, this was most assuredly a statement topper.
The gentlemen of 1776 were not to be outdone and they, too, wore their finest to the many festivities. They donned silk stockings and knee breeches and waistcoats (vests). Shirts with bloused sleeves ending with frilly lace cuffs were worn under long, formal, tailored coats of wool and linen. These were also often embroidered. The style was completed with buckled shoes and powdered hair or hair pulled into a queue (low ponytail) at the nape of the neck.* Tricorn hats were worn atop the head.
For those of more modest means, the pieces and overall silhouettes described above remained the same but the fabric was of rougher home spun cloth. While not as elegant as silks or wool, it was considered patriotic and some wealthy people also proudly wore the fabric “made in America.” Martha Washington, herself, promoted the self sufficient production of home spun textiles in support of the war effort and to help establish a pride in an emerging national identity.
While the new country celebrated its hard won independent status, clothing fashions and styles still adhered to the old world from which it was born. What was different was the spirit and attitude of a new and independent people. Wardrobes initially looked as they had before the war but a distinctly American personality would soon begin to express itself. Though the clothing of 1776 at first emphasized the old order of formality and social rank, democratization would soon follow. One hundred years later would see those changes become manifest. Stay tuned for 1876.
*It may be the powdered hair that gives the impression of the Founders as “old white men” when, in fact, they were quite young:
Ages ranged from 21, Alexander Hamilton, to 70 for Benjamin Franklin. Thomas Jefferson was 33 and George Washington was 44.
