Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference
Robert Frost
Written in 1913, the opening lines of Robert Frost’s poem, The Road Not Taken, perfectly captures America’s courage to effect and embrace change. From the founding in 1776 to the American Centennial in 1876 to the Bicentennial in 1976, Americans repeatedly chose the road “less traveled” and were unafraid to break with tradition. American fashion became a statement of invention and re-invention for each generation and, ultimately, each individual. It is a remarkable journey that begins with the fading of the 19th century.
At the end of the 19th century, a fashionable woman declared her respectability and social status in an architecturally structured dress over a tight corset to create a small waist, a bustle cage in the back (which had only recently replaced the huge steel hoops under crinoline skirts), was adorned with many lavish accessories and a huge hat trimmed in feathers. Yet, under all this, dramatic changes we’re underway, re-fashioning the country and fashion itself. Already, textile mills were producing volumes of fabric, ready-to- wear was available at affordable prices and department stores were in many large cities, facilitating accessibility.
World War I (1914-1918) required women to take work in factories, hospitals and offices giving them a taste of responsibility and independence. The war ended and the country was swept up in the exuberance of the Roaring twenties. Seemingly overnight flappers discarded corsets, (see Fun With Fashion Foundations) and wore short, shimmering dresses with bobbed hair under small cloche hats. Reserved, formal elegance was replaced with high energy dancing, Jazz, makeup, women driving cars and smoking cigarettes—a window of independence had opened up.
The party came to a sudden halt with the 1929 economic crash and subsequent Great Depression. These were difficult, hard years and still the desire for extravagant clothes and independence lived on. Happily, Hollywood was in full swing and provided movies and glamorous stars as fashion icons: Beautiful people, in huge mansions, dapper men in tuxedos and women always dressed in gorgeous gowns. It may have been make believe, but it offered an escape from the grim reality of the 1930’s while keeping fashion aspirations alive.
Before any fashion aspirations could be realized, WWII began. Of necessity, fabric was rationed, nylon hosiery disappeared as parachutes were the priority, clothing was utilitarian, colors were drab and women were once again working in factories wearing heavy trousers, overalls, denim and sturdy shoes. Not the Hollywood glamour many yearned for, but it was patriotic. The iconic image of “Rosie the Riveter” forever changed the image of women and their capabilities.
Finally, in 1945, the war ended. A new iconic image of a sailor kissing a nurse expressed optimism and joy. Rebuilding the country opened opportunities and produced good paying jobs. With fabrics and new fashions readily available, women eagerly embraced a return to femininity. This time there were lots of options.
Dior’s New Look romanticized the female form with cinched waists, full, flouncy skirts, floral prints (see The Slow Growth of Genius: The Making of Christian Dior also Christian Dior: The Long Struggle To Overnight Success). His contemporary and friend, Pierre Balmain, offered high end glamour and found success with the International set of celebrities (see Balmain: The Untold Story Behind One Of Paris’ Most Iconic Houses). For those who wanted comfort and ease of movement, Cristobal Balenciaga created the waistless “sack dress” and other easy to wear designs (see Dior Shaped The Body: Balenciaga Set It Free) These expensive French designs were copied and offered in stores everywhere, fashion was featured in every television show and were offered in new synthetic fabrics that lowered both costs and care of clothing.
It wasn’t just Paris offering new styles. The American fashion industry had found its footing and now confidently tread a “road less traveled” and offered American sportswear, which created worldwide demand for its comfort and style. Teenagers, too, were recognized as a new market for American clothes and blue jeans and t-shirts took their place in the American pantheon of fashion classics—style was now defined by age groups as well as social elites.
By the 1960’s, young people—not Paris—were the trendsetters in fashion. The forces driving this time were cultural and revolutionary: Music, the Civil Rights Movement, Vietnam, women’s liberation, experimental lifestyles, counterculture Hippies, drugs, the Space Age and Pop art. All inspired a shifting kaleidoscope of bold prints, bright, colors, psychedelic patterns, futuristic silhouettes and sleek designs. Women began wearing pants and miniskirts, undoing centuries of unwritten dress codes (sometimes actually undressing—Woodstock!).
By America’s Bicentennial in 1976, fashion was individualized. Miniskirts, maxi skirts, pantsuits, wrap dresses, BoHo looks, knits separates—jeans and T-shirts were iconic in every wardrobe. Fashion no longer expressed wealth or social status, it was about individual personality, needs, aspirations and lifestyle. America had democratized clothing. Between 1976 and July 4th, 2026, there are fifty years of further, radical changes and the future of fashion to consider. Where are we now and where might we go? Let’s travel the road together.
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