“The leaves fall, the wind blows and the farm country slowly changes from summer cottons into winter wools.” Henry Benton
It’s a seasonal ritual as summer fades into autumn and autumn gives way to winter, we replace our summer cottons, linens and silks with warmer and sturdier wools. We look forward to the snuggly coziness of cashmere, mohair, angora and all things wool.
To wear wool, as with any natural fiber, is to wear history. Evidence indicates that humans have been spinning and weaving wool for garments since at least 4,000BC. While the term wool can describe fibers from goats, llamas, alpacas, and rabbits, we mostly think of sheep as our wool source. The Persians, Greeks and, especially, the Romans, established sheep raising wherever they conquered territory. Sheep were a moveable feast that provided milk, meat, skins and wool – regardless of geography or climate.
When the Romans conquered Hispania (Spain) in the 3rd c BC, they brought in sheep from Africa, which by the 1st c AD were bred with sheep from Italy. The long arc of breeding history would eventually produce, in Spain, the breed we know as Merino. Recognized as the finest wool available, the exporting of Merino wool became so lucrative to Spain it was called “white gold” and, as might be expected, was zealously protected. The history of Merino sheep and its wool as the ‘white gold’ standard is a complex, politically entangled one, but through it all the fine Merino wool fibers retained supremacy and is still the preferred wool for clothing designers and consumers.
The diameter of wool fiber is expressed in microns – the lower the number the finer and softer the fiber. Merino wool fibers range from 18-24 microns making it soft to wear against the skin. (Cashmere is finer with diameters of 14-19 micron but it is more expensive and more delicate than Merino wool). This low micron diameter and the natural crimp in the Merino fiber also allows it to absorb 30% of its weight without feeling wet and allowing the natural air pockets to wick away moisture and to regulate temperature. These properties make wool a viable choice for both cold and warm environments. Wool can be woven in different weights from Tropical to Super Heavyweight.
Many designers appreciate the practical properties of Merino wool and consistently include it in their collections. Additionally, they also appreciate its ability to take dyes well and drape elegantly. Among some of the most prominent are:
THE ROW, known for luxurious, high quality Merino wool and wool blends in coats and sweaters. Their tailored pieces fashioned in high quality fabrics express sophistication and high end “quiet” luxury.
STELLA McCARTNEY, a recognized pioneer in sustainable fashion, uses the ‘gold standard’ in wool sourced from ethical and sustainable farms in many of her collections. That wool is biodegradable makes it an especially attractive fabric for this eco-conscious yet high end, fashion forward designer.
PRADA has a long history of incorporating wool in its collections of outerwear and suitings. Wool’s versatility allows Prada to experiment with using the fabric in new and innovative ways such as in bags and footwear.
St. JOHN KNITS is one of the oldest American brands and earned its reputation for high quality, sophistication and long lasting fit by using a proprietary blend of Merino wool and rayon, called “Santana.” Read the blog
ACNE STUDIOS is known for their modern avant-garde style. Premium, high quality wool is used in their sweaters, jackets and coats and scarves. The versatility and adaptability of wool allows the brand to create and express forward styles and designs.
From tailored to cutting edge styles, wool is an across the board favorite for both designers and consumers. Today, many wools are blended with synthetic fibers to produce garments that are both soft and affordable.
High quality, long lasting fabrics made from the best natural fibers are always a good investment when building your Purely Personal style.
FUN FACT: Sheep can see behind themselves without turning their heads! Wide-set eyes allow an almost 360 degree view as protection from predators. (See more Fun Wool terms at Fun With Fashion blog)
