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From Model to Mogul: The Story of St John Knits

“Simplicity is the ultimate Sophistication” Leonardo Da Vinci

Imagine being born in 1920 — the flapper era and the beginning of women’s suffrage — and by 1939 being a beautiful, glamorous model in California alongside actresses like Dorothy Lamour and Bette Davis. Think what an observant, creative model could learn about clothing, construction, fabrics, design and marketing.

This is the story of one such model who would leave modeling and go on to have an outsized impact on American fashion by starting her own design company, against all odds, and one that is still thriving today.

It began with frustration over the clothing options available in Los Angeles. Taught to knit by her grandmother and mother, Marie St. John knit her own ensembles of straight skirts and short sleeved tops and wore them to work. Her fellow models admired her designs for their elegance and simplicity and clamored for their own, which Marie obligingly made for them. Recognizing an opportunity, she conceived of establishing her own design house specializing in knitwear. She began creating prototypes and small collections to sell.

Engaged to Robert Gray, an enterprising apparel salesman, the couple wed in 1946, marrying a classic story of love and entrepreneurship. She eventually convinced Robert to present her creations to stores he called upon. Somewhat skeptical of acceptance and understanding the difficulties of the industry, he reluctantly agreed. To his surprise, Bullock’s department store ordered 84 units but with a seemingly impossible 30 day delivery deadline. With typical American can-do determination, he and Marie hired her mother, his mother and another experienced knitter, borrowed $5,000, bought looms and secured a workspace and actually made the deadline. This marked what today we might call “proof-of-concept.”

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The two continued to build the business and St John Knits incorporated in 1962. Marie was the creative design force and Robert the business and operations head. Their roles blended as expertly as the classic designs in fabric for which the company would become known and renowned. Growth was slow and as controlled as the quality of its garments. Importantly, they kept production strictly under personal control. They concentrated on marketing to upscale department stores whose customers appreciated the high quality details such as hand knit hems (as opposed to sewn hems), the St John signature blended yarns of merino wool and rayon – called “Santana” – and double knit fabrications. Moreover, St. John presented four categories to meet the demands of its devoted clientele: tailored dresses, suits, separates and casual wear all created with Marie’s elegant, timeless sophisticated simplicity of line and structure – an American Chanel. In the 1980’s as women entered the higher ranks of management, became more active in public affairs and more in demand as speakers, St. John became the go-to brand. These were the women who needed and valued clothing that stood up to travel without wrinkling and were designed to be “blocked” to perfectly conform to individual body types.

In 1989, St. John agreed to sell 80% of the company to Escada, a Germany luxury brand also established by a husband and wife. The funds allowed them to build out free standing St. John boutiques. They continued to keep tight control over production including the dying and spinning of yarn, casting the specially designed buttons for each garment as well as jewelry and accessories. The 1990’s saw a continued rise in growth but the Escada group ran into financial difficulties, forcing it to sell off the St. John division. However, the company continued and began a shift to appeal to a younger customer by installing Kelly Gray, daughter of Marie and Robert, as President in 1996. Unfortunately efforts to expand into Japan and create a home furnishing division did not work out and the plan was abandoned.

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One of the oldest surviving women’s clothing brands in America, St. John is today experiencing a renaissance with a whole new generation of women who have rediscovered the value of quality and classic dressing. In addition to the knitwear, today’s shopper will find gorgeous evening wear, contemporary silhouettes in leather, suede and denim, flowing dresses, sumptuous silks and satins and novelty pieces like beautifully embellished sweaters and fun faux fur vests.

Discover the value of adding sophisticated simplicity and long lasting quality to your PURELY PERSONAL STYLE