Icons and designers

“Then and Now:” Dior’s Reimagined Fashion Timeline

“…in the movies Paris is designed as a background for only three things — love, fashion shows and revolution ” Jeanine Basinger

The Dior show began on a brilliant, crisp early spring day. Traffic converged on the Place de la Concorde as hundreds of bystanders crowded around, hoping for a glimpse of celebrities. The limousine opened and I stepped into a phalanx of those with invitations — celebrities, journalists, bloggers, mega Dior clients and others (me)! A television scene of any big event, and there I was following the line through the photographers. As it turned out, I was just behind some well known personality, though unknown to me. I’m afraid that I unintentionally photo-bombed more than a few pictures as the crowd pressed me into her space! (They will certainly be edited out of any publications).

Inside a large darkened pavilion, lit with a blue light, a deep resonating sound overlaid the noise of excited people. As the hour approached, the noise level rose as more and more spectators took their seats and the music began to level up, increasing a vibration felt deeply through the body. Though loud and intense, it was strangely calming.

Almost everyone had dressed in Dior, if not totally, at least pieces new or from former collections. I selected a total ensemble of a classic wrap, double-breasted, mid-calf dress. The small black and white pattern called “pied de poule” (chicken feet) is our houndstooth pattern. I indulged in a tailored black blazer with photos of Parisian street scenes printed down one side — so new it is not yet produced! This one was available only because it was used for a promotion! Classic, but with a twist it can be worn with many looks. A small Lady Dior bag of soft white and Dior gray in crocodile completed the classic, tailored look. Among so many oversized pants, skirts, tops and capes the tailored look had a stand-out elegance. The unique photo print design on the blazer caught the attention of several photographers who zeroed in and took pictures.

No sign was visible but suddenly everyone was seated and the show began:

A model appeared and simply sat, spotlighted, for several minutes, on a swing suspended from the ceiling. The show’s theme was “Then and Now” and as the model exited the swing, a voice intoned “Once upon a time” over and over as models began to appear and walked across a large square “runway,” and a large pterodactyl flew overhead. As the show progressed, the runway morphed (via lighting effects) to symbolize a meteorite extinction event and the runway became crisscrossing diagonals. The floor then became like molten lava and models continued their diagonal routes and parading in front of the audience. Next was an Ice Age stage with white pyramids rising dramatically from the floor (perhaps also a reference to pyramid in front of the Louvre?). With each “age,” the music changed, as well, become more melodic. As the Ice Age receded, melting, the floor became a beautiful blue with the models walking through a mist as if across water. For the finale, the floor was presented in stripes of yellow/green and shaded grays. The models emerged from four corners, filling the floor with the distinctive costumes — some seeming to represent animal skins draped on the body, others referencing the Renaissance with large, ruffed collars and silhouettes and finally todays see-through netting, asymmetrical hems, shoulder lengths shawls and a lot of black and white combinations — a modern day classic.

Of course, the designer, Maria Grazia, made a brief appearance for her final bow — this is her last show as creative director for Dior (with the exception of the cruise wear show later this year).

The exit was even more jammed than the entrance had been, with spectators hoping for a glimpse of their favorite celebrity. One, an online influencer from South Korea, elicited loud screaming and tears usually reserved for rock stars. One young man’s face, streaming with tears of adulation, begged her to turn his way for a photo! (She actually sat just in front of me during the show).

Fashion is truly an International fascination. The models, audience, journalists and spectators were from around the globe. Indeed, Dior was the first Maison to use models of color and ethnic diversity as early as 1947. It was to Dior the world’s notables flocked looking for that truly “je ne sais quoi,” that uniquely Purely Personal style still sought after today!

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