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Plaid Perfect: The Timeless Journey from Tradition to Street Style

“Nowhere beats the heart so kindly as beneath the tartan plaid”.

William Edmondstouse Aytoun

Scotland brings to mind bagpipes, a distinctive brogue, fierce warriors and, of course, plaid kilts.
The word plaid (from old Gaelic “plaide”) originally described a large blanket worn over the shoulders for warmth; tartan more accurately referred to the colors and patterns worn by the ancient Celts. The Celts lived across Western Europe and Asia Minor so the colors, derived from local plants, served to identify individual regions and communities.

Illustration portraying Scottish immigrants during the 1600s, reflecting the transatlantic journey and cultural integration.
Scots-Irish and Highland migrations prior to the American Revolution.
The Tartans of the Clan Buchanan

Though we use the terms synonymously, plaids and tartans are technically different.

Plaids can be almost any criss-cross pattern but tartans are created by weaving horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colors to form rectangular patterns.

Tartans also must have a name and/or history. Tartan patterns are registered by the Scottish Register of Tartans in Edinburgh and are maintained by the National Records of Scotland. If you are of Scottish descent, you can check to see the pattern (called a sett) tied to your clan!

Stewart Royal Modern Heavyweight Tartan Fabric

Even if you are not Scottish, you have probably incorporated the traditional Christmas plaid into your Christmas dress or decor. Have you ever wondered why or how this plaid of red, green and yellow became a traditional holiday element? The pagan Celts celebrated the Winter Solstice (December 21) by wearing their brightly colored and patterned tartans.


Eventually, the tartan pattern came to represent the gifts of the Magi; green for Frankincense, red for Myrrh and yellow for Gold.

Plaids are traditionally woven into wool and flannel as their first utility was to provide warmth so they are particularly prevalent in the winter months. Today the fun and festive Christmas tartan is available in wool and flannel as casual wear and also in silks, cottons and blends worn for dressy and formal occasions.

Revue de la Mode, Gazette de la Famille, dimanche 1er Août 1886
1970s(?) Missoni sweater and skirt set, purple, red and green plaid knit
State Street Madison 2021

But there is much more to plaids. Tartan patterns and colors have a very long history involving, politics, religion, national pride and rebellion and are represented in rugged workwear, high fashion and uniforms. Scottish immigrants brought their heavy wools and patterns to America in the 1600’s. They were a proud, stubbornly independent people who valued their freedom and were not afraid to fight for it. They were loyal to their kin and clan, wearing their colors to identify familial relationships and ancestry. These traits mirrored the spirit of American settlers of all backgrounds and plaids were enthusiastically adopted for their, warmth, durability and practical utility, becoming emblematic of working class. One such example is the iconic “lumberjack” flannel shirt, also known as the Buffalo pattern, it is characterized by bold red and black squares.

Lumberjack in the famous black/red plaid pattern

Plaids are also popular with clothing designers and high end brands. Perhaps one of the most associated with plaid is Burberry with the entire brand built around its red, tan and black pattern.  More moderately priced brands include L.L. Bean, J. Crew, Abercrombie & Fitch, and H&M. Clothing designers famous for incorporating plaid include Vivienne Westwood (counter culture punk), Alexander McQueen (avant-garde), Ralph Lauren (classic American), Marc Jacob’s (eclectic) and even Chanel (classic sophistication).

Burberry famous pattern
Plaid Polo Ralph Lauren Jacket, Wikipedia Commons
Photo from the Lee Alexander McQueen & Ann Ray: Rendez-Vous exhibition, Wikipedia Commons
Licensed copy of a Chanel day suit, wool bouclé c. 1967, USA. Gift of Ruth L. Peskin, 78.179.

So, plaid is available at every price point and style. Here are a few tips to incorporate plaid into your Purely Personal Style.

CHOOSE APPROPRIATE SCALE: Consider your body type and choose the proper size plaid to complement your build. A too large pattern can overwhelm a petite frame and a very small plaid on a large frame can look busy.

CASUAL OR DRESSY: Versatile plaid can go in either direction. A classic (and historical) casual look is easy to achieve with a plaid blouse in flannel or cotton paired with a pair of jeans and boots. For a dressed up look, a plaid pattern on a silk dress and heels makes an elegant statement. Or, wear a tailored plaid jacket over a solid dress or pants. You can also mix it up by using the jacket over a sweater or t-shirt with your jeans.

ACCESSORIZING: When wearing plaid clothing, keep shoes, bag and jewelry neutral to allow the plaid center stage or use a color in the plaid to highlight and emphasize a favorite color within the pattern. Plaids can make interesting and fun accessories to more neutral clothing. A bright plaid handbag, shoes or belt add pops of color or intriguing pattern mixes to a basic ensemble.

MIX PATTERNS CAREFULLY: Plaids are fun to mix with other patterns such as stripes or florals but be mindful of scale and balance. A bright, bold plaid can work well with a more traditional, subtle pinstripe. Keep the color palette and the scale of the patterns related.

USE COLOR TO ADVANTAGE: Plaids can be quiet or loud (one is even referred to as “Loud” MacLeod).  Consider the occasion and the statement you want to make. Also, be aware of how the pattern color works with your complexion.

FUN FACT FOOTNOTE: Plaid day occurs worldwide on the first Friday of October. Discover your favorite plaid pattern and show your colors!

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