“He was not just a designer; he was a visionary, a man of the theater, a cultural force.” Caroline Evans
Paul Poiret, one of the most creative, innovative, energetic and influential designers the fashion world has ever experienced is also, paradoxically, one of the least known. The term “Renaissance man” was first used in 1906 and certainly could describe Paul Poiret; his work and prodigious talents and interests would influence and revolutionize much more than fashion, though it began there.
Born in 1879 in Paris, France, Poiret showed an early interest in design and he honed his design skills and philosophy while apprenticed to both Jacques Doucet and later to Gaston Worth (son of Charles Frederick Worth, founder of the revolutionary House of Worth). Poiret proved to be too avant-garde for the established design houses and in 1903, Poiret (age 24) opened his first shop.
He immediately eliminated the tight, restrictive corsets that molded women’s bodies into exaggerated shapes and introduced the “lampshade” dress. It did not take long for Poiret’s philosophy of freedom to be embraced by women everywhere and with freedom of the body came a freedom of the mind and attitudes. Poiret’s designs set off a cultural shift still resonating today. By 1908 his dresses had become even more fluid, streamlined and simple, with the fabric falling in a straight line from the shoulders to the ankles — as pure and elegant as a Grecian column. The wife of Britains Prime minister, Margot Asquith, invited Poiret to present his creations at 10 Downing Street in 1909, solidifying his position as a world renowned designer.
But, even as the world followed his fashion lead, Poiret saw himself as an artist and creator beyond clothing. He surrounded himself with artists (Brancusi, Matisse, Modigliani, Picasso, Paul Iribe and others) and architects (Gabriel Mourey, Edgar Brandt, Jean-Michel Frank, Sonia Delaunay) with whom he collaborated and who helped promote his vision in many areas. Indeed, many of his designs with which the public is familiar is due to the illustrations in catalogs by highly regarded artists that are collected pieces of art themselves. In these illustrations can be seen his influence on the early development of an entire artistic vocabulary and movement—Art Deco.
These collaborations led Poiret to be the first to introduce a fragrance line, accessories and home decor products, introducing the concept of integrated “lifestyle” branding — he even wrote a cookbook! (“La Cuisine de Paul Poiret”)
When the Russian ballet arrived in Paris, he was immediately smitten with the exotic stage settings and costumes. Poiret, always inventive and exploding with ideas and concepts never before imagined, gleefully dove into the bold colors, patterns and styles of the Far East, India and Russia. The “scandalous” harem pant or “jupe-culotte” was a result. To promote these strange yet glamorous and romantic designs, Poiret threw lavish garden themed parties — one called “A Thousand and Second Night,” with the guests themselves dressing the parts. This entertainment-as-promotion was a novel approach and is still used today — Hollywood’s Red Carpet events and The Met Gala are but two modern day examples.
Poiret was drafted into military service at the outbreak of WWI (1914) and designed the ugly but utilitarian “Great coat” keeping his name in the public. After the war ended, however, he was unable to adapt to the chaotic economic challenges and the inexorable move to ready-to-wear. He was forced to close his business in 1929 and he faded from the public’s memory.
However, he is revered among designers, past and present, whose work draw on his immense creative contributions and his recognition of the interconnectedness of the arts. Paul Poiret’s bold artistic expression, mesmerizing personality, high octane energy and never ending curiosity created more than fashion: He influenced fundamental shifts in society, art, marketing and branding.
Follow in the footsteps of Paul Poiret and try something bold and new in your Purely Personal style!
