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From Baudelaire to Birkin: The Story of Boho Chic

“Creativity is the greatest rebellion in existence” Osho

Boho is shorthand for Bohemian which referred to the people believed to have originated from Bohemia in the Czech Republic. It was a condescending and unflattering term used to describe those who lived a nomadic and unconventional life in early 19th century Europe — a time of strict conventions and social hierarchy. It was, perhaps, inevitable that the very definition of Bohemian would appeal to those souls who colored outside the lines — artists, writers, poets and anyone who resisted societal structure and rules.

By the mid-1800s, the BoHo style was solidly associated with artistic types who overtly bucked the norms of society such as George Sand (feminist and novelist), Charles Baudelaire (poet), Gustave Courbet, (painter) and William Morris (artist and designer) among other notables. Both their lifestyles and clothing expressed their personal values of creativity, individuality and freedom.

Gaby Aghion

A century later in 1952, Egyptian-born Gaby Aghion founded Chloé (a Greek word meaning a fresh green shoot”). One of the first to offer Ready-to-Wear, Aghion wanted to offer women an alternative to the expensive custom designer fashions of the time. She understood that a growing demographic of independent women wanted comfortable, accessible clothing with the freedom to express their individuality.  The countercultural movements of the 1960s celebrated individuality, artistic expression and rejected the established conventional and material norms — just as in the mid-1800s. Chloé’s aesthetic of comfort, soft silhouettes in free flowing fabrics and earth tones mirrored the same rebellious attitude as in the BoHo look of earlier.

(From left to right: Brigitte Bardot, Jane Birkin, Stevie Nicks)

Chloé’s emphasis on feminine details such as lace, embroidery and floral patterns combined with loose romantic textured layers solidified the brand as the leader of the BoHo look. Early adopters of Chloé in the 1960s include Jane Birkin, Brigette Bardot and Ali MacGraw and in the 1970s singer, Stevie Nicks, of Fleetwood Mac. Each of these women were independent and free spirited whose styles included flowing dresses and oversized bags (Birkin), peasant blouses (Bardot), wide leg pants and earthy colors (MacGraw) and for Nicks, shawls and layered accessories. All of them highlighted the BoHo look to the public but it was still largely a personal aesthetic not yet seen in mainstream fashion.

Zimmermann dress
Ralph Lauren bag
Chloé blouse
etro jeans
Etro jeans
boho necklaces
Layered chain necklaces
shawl boho paisley
Zimmermann shawl

It was in the 1990s that fashion designers embraced the so-called BoHo chic” style. Inspired by the Grunge” look presented by Marc Jacobs in 1992, other designers incorporated elements of BoHo into their collections. Isabel Marant combined Parisian chic with ethnic prints and layers of fabric in relaxed silhouettes. Anna Sui mixed textures and prints with vintage elements and Etro offered its vibrant and distinctive prints and patterns on fashion forward soft silhouettes.

boho style orange flowy dress

Today BoHo is accepted as an enduring classic style that combines well with other styles. Elements of BoHo lend an individual flair to any outfit:  a simple pair of jeans and a T-shirt bend towards BoHo with the addition of a fringed bag or large cuff bracelet; a colorful scarf layered over a single shoulder and tucked under the belt of a tailored suit, elevates the look to a personal expression. Romantic prints easily take the addition of vintage jewelry to lean towards BoHo. Even the little black dress, long or short, can surprise with the addition of bold or ethnic accessories.

Boho is one of the easiest styles to incorporate into your wardrobe. Express your Purely Personal style with BoHos flexible individuality and as Coco Chanel said, Dont be like all the rest of them, Darling!”

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