“ The First Lady must be a leader.
She must not be a follower.”
Oleg Cassini
In rejecting Monarchy and a class of royals, America still desired respect and legitimacy from the well established courts of Europe. Originally seen as an uncouth backwater, it fell to the wives of our political leaders to represent the character of our new nation. As the wives of the first and second Presidents of the fledgling nation, both Martha Washington and Abigail Adam’s dressed plainly and simply, but in quality European fabrics.
Dolly Madison (1809 - 1817)
It was the determined and courageous Dolly Madison who impressed with dress. Today she is best remembered for saving the portrait of George Washington along with the silver, china and, possibly, red velvet curtains before the British burned down the White House in 1814. However, in her day she was renowned for her hostess skills, inviting political rivals to social events and using formal dress to foster an atmosphere of civility.
A completely homegrown American, Dolly never traveled to Europe, yet she well understood the power of dress. She brought together the luxury of European fabrics and style with an American simplicity. Her dresses were fashionably high waisted with scooped necks and long skirts gathered high in the back between the shoulders. European royalty might wear this revival style with crowns and jewels but Dolly’s signature was to wear a silk turban adorned with tall feathers and pearls — a style she wore until she died at age 81.
Dolly Madison used her bold personal style to put American First Ladies on a par with their European counterparts.
By the way, the term First Lady was coined by President Zachary Taylor in his eulogy of Dolly Madison.
Eleanor Roosevelt (1933 - 1945)
As the longest serving First Lady, Eleanor Roosevelt had an outsized impact as she served during one of the most definitive decades in American history— the Great Depression and WWII. Plain, practical and outspoken she broke with tradition and did not confine herself to being a White House hostess and homemaker. She rejected clothing that emphasized femininity and the traditional roles for women, preferring functional, comfortable styles that worked with her active and highly visible position as she traveled the country. Her preference for tailored suits and simple dresses was a move towards a more modern, active First Lady and reflected the social changes taking place. By her example, Eleanor encouraged women to dress for their own comfort, individuality and the expanded roles she modeled for them. She understood the power of visual representation to project the strength and capability that clothing provided women as their roles extended beyond the domestic arena. Her clothing choices were deliberate and had a profound effect on American women then and continue to resonate today giving women the freedom to dress to express their individuality.
Jacqueline Kennedy (1961 - 1963)
Elegant and polished, Jacqueline Kennedy is America’s First Lady of fashion and style. Her aesthetic epitomized sophistication and grace and brought back a modern expression of femininity. She preferred classic, chic suits and shift dresses that complimented her slender silhouette. She used accessories and statement jewelry to add an extra layer of interest and style. Pillbox hats, oversized sunglasses, scarves and vintage jewelry became her signature daytime pieces. For formal evenings she wore strapless gowns and long, over-the-elbow white gloves for a timeless elegance.
Kennedy’s favorite American designers were Oleg Cassini and Claire McCardell along with the French house of Chanel.
Youthful, beautiful, cultured and charming, Jacqueline Kennedy reflected the optimism of the ‘60’s and defined an era. Jacqueline’s impeccable taste set her apart as a fashion icon of the 20th century not only in America but also worldwide.
Nancy Reagan (1981 - 1989)
Perhaps influenced by a career in Hollywood films as an actress and as a former First Lady of California, Nancy Reagan arrived at the White House with a well developed sense of style. Most women in the public eye understand, appreciate and employ the power of classic, tailored garments in neutral colors and Nancy was no exception — except for her passion for red! She wore the color so often it became her signature and was referred to as “Nancy Reagan red” (when attending events with the First Lady, women were actually advised not to wear “her” color)! She paired her exquisitely tailored ensembles with bold, modern earrings further defining her personal style.
The 1980’s were an affluent and exuberant time and as First Lady, Nancy both led and reflected the mood of the country in opulent fabrics and designer clothing. She loved to represent American fashion designers such as Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston and James Galanos. She proudly showcased their designs on the world stage and received the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s lifetime achievement award for her efforts.
Barbara Bush (1989 - 1993)
Barbara Bush has fascinating cross connections with other First Ladies. At 63 she was the second oldest First Lady, only two years younger than 65 year old Anna Harrison. She was also the second First Lady to be the wife of and then mother to a President — Abigail Adams is the other. And, her approach to dress connected her to the practical Eleanor Roosevelt.
She entered the White House with a head of thick white hair that wreathed her experienced face like a halo. It was a startling change from her immediate predecessor, the glamorous Nancy Reagan, who was often compared favorably to the iconic Jacqueline Kennedy.
It did not take long for the American public to fall in love with Barbara Bush whose dress style communicated a stately authority combined with a warm personality and quick wit. She emphasized classic, tailored suits and dresses in comfortable, functional fabrics paired with sensible low heeled shoes or even flats. Her color palette encompassed royal blue, emerald greens, ruby reds and softer pastels and always worn with her trademark pearls (connecting her to Dolly Madison). This single accessory came to be emblematic of her style, combining tradition with a modern, very active First Lady. Her fashion choices, never ostentatious, showed a level of confidence, practicality and approachability that endeared her to the nation.
Each First Lady’s style is expressive of their individual personality combined with the demands of high visibility to still “represent the character of the nation.” The First Ladies above are examples of all our First Ladies who represent us with dignity, sophistication and pride in our nation. Their personal styles lead us forward and raise our spirits.
Remember that you are the First Lady of your life! Let your Purely Personal style lead you forward and raise your spirits!
